The Aya Sofia a.k.a. Hagia Sophia

I've been told that Istanbul exudes mystical energy.  My afternoon walking through the incomparable Aya Sofia convinced me of it.  As my 80+ pictures prove, I found the former Cathedral/former Mosque/now museum fascinating at every turn.  Once the largest church in the world, the structure also boasted that of largest clear-standing dome. Google it for more juicy details.

Sadly, it is not clear how much longer this treasure will remain open for visitors. Time, earthquakes, structural issues and debates over who is responsible for maintenance, all contribute to the growing question of the safety and preservation of the site.

I feel especially thankful that I've lived to see it. The memory of unnumbered prayers, both Christian and Islamic, whispered under the golden dome and blessed me.

Welcome to Istanbul, Ken

Greeting my man at Ataturk International Airport

Yesterday, my dearest arrived to share the Turkish adventure with me. After two weeks apart, I was a bit giddy to see him again. 

Along with excellent company, this means I have someone to show around the small sliver that I know of this wonderful city. We walk along and I'm the one leading the way, pointing out the next turn, naming the landmark. I also have the luxury of unlimited access to a good kisser and his laptop.

Thank you to Chelsea, Carlos, Ashlee and the generous Suzanne Mallery who each loaned a computer to me in turn so I could check e-mail, import pictures, blog and create slide shows on Picasa.

Celebrating our reunion with chai and pistachio baklava!

Now I'm on Istanbul with sweet Ken AND a MacBook. Heaven!

Ebru: Turkish Marbling and Meeting a Mystic

Along with exploring our district, traveling to Asia, and eating local cuisine, this experience has been enriched by amazing people. Ali and Betul invited our group of 18 to their gallery for Iftar dinner last week. We met their children Emre and Zaneb and Ali's brother Nurdawon.

This week small groups joined Betul in her studio for classes in ebru: paper marbling.  Along with the delight of creating in a stress-free fashion, we met Mr. Erol Dervish.  He welcomed us with dervish tea, interpreted the meaning of some of our work, and sent us off with more dervish tea when our afternoon class ended.  I was especially moved by his interpretation of the piece I'm holding in the picture above.  In fact, he moved me to tears.



As a Sufi, Mr. Erol practices a mystic tradition.  He said that he knew the meaning of my picture because I created from the heart, not the head.  This is what he told me through a translator:

Blue is for the ocean.  This (my design of flowers) represents a family.  The family have great joy with and for each other.  They are separated now but the picture shows that they will share great joy when they are all reunited.


Without any conversation before hand, he spoke my heart.  Having a stranger perceive my life so clearly was a bit unnerving but he was gentle and unassuming.  As I cried on Suzanne's shoulder, he add, "She has a sensitive heart".  Okay, that didn't take any mystical insight, but the main part did.

With my sweet girl at home and soon going abroad to school, my darling boy at boarding school for this term, and my man still en route to meet me here, Mr. Dervish hit home with his analysis.  Oh, yes, there will be great joy.

I believe the afternoon was a huge success.  Our group left Les Arts Turc feeling like we were a bit more immersed in the local culture and as if were were capable ebru artists.

What the Students say

As part of their experience, the students in the group are also keeping a blog of our Turkish travels. Often they have pictures that I don't; for example last night with the whirling dervish dancers.  For other perspectives on our Turkish travels, visit Going Global.

Sunday stroll, lunch and the Archeological Museum

Just walking through our neighborhood prompts me to pull out the camera.  Life is colorful and interesting, a visually refreshing change from the homogenous sites of the Inland Empire.

Sunday we lunched at the Montana Cafe where I first noticed the sign featuring the set Iftar menu.  A great idea for anyone fasting who would like to eat as soon as the call to prayer sounds at sunset; no waiting for an order to be filled.

The waiter at Montana was just a bit too edgy, asking Paul Mallory how long the group will stay, offering a special discount if all 18 of us eat there again, and showing special interest in a couple of the women in our group.



At lunch I faced another responsibility as chaperon; checking the cash envelopes for the students. We're on our own for breakfast and occasionally lunch or supper, so the trip was planned with this in mind. Going out and buying bread, fruit and cheese makes for interesting interactions. Along with food, the account covers water. Very nice. But accounting is not so nice in my books. I spent an unhappy year in charge of petty cash when we lived in Sudan, reminded every day of my capacity to fail. Thankfully, so much of this experience is positive, that this prickly chore doesn't eclipse the joy of the rest of the adventure.

After lunch we went to the Archeological Museum.  I confess that my experience on a dig in Jordan last year, blunted my enthusiasm for this venture.  If you missed that blog, here it is.  Satiation with all things archeological and low lighting account for the few pictures featuring museum exhibits.

The Galata Tower and Taksim District

Walking.  And more walking.  I am persuaded that a well-designed city provides a variety of safe, clean, affordable public transport and ample opportunity to walk.  After returning from the jaunt across the Bosphorus, I joined a group of students who wanted to climb the Gelata Tower.

We hoped to find the Funicular, the second oldest underground train in the world, to take us up the hill, but were not successful.  Walking meant seeing more of the shops along the way.  When we reached the tower, the line of people waiting to climb the inside staircase was so long that we altered our plan and continued on to the business/commercial district.  Crowds of people walking, a steady breeze, a red street trolley, and Sephora; what's not to like?





After our long ramble we caught the metro back across the Golden Horn.  I had time to shower, dress, and leave my small apartment refreshed and ready for another splendid meal.

Onward to Asia!

Saturday was a free day for the group.  However, anyone wishing to could join the Mallery family on a jaunt to the Asian side of the Bosphorus.  I definitely wished to.  This also meant adding another form of transport to my list of options.  For the same price as a metro ride, we boarded the ferry at the Karakoy ferry and were off to the Kadikoy Pier on the next continent.

Lunch was another gastronomic delight of a meal: I had the BEST stuffed grape leaves of my life and devoured a plate of potato dumplings with thick yogurt.  Yum!  I am beginning to think this is an eating holiday.

After lunch I was reminded why I'm here: to chaperon.  But ever vigilant as I am, a student got away from the group and managed to stay lost.  The main group headed to the ferry while two students retraced our steps to the cafe where we lost her.  No luck.  We waited for an hour at the ferry, watching for her.  Finally, knowing she could find her way back and may have already taken the ferry ahead of us, we returned to Old Istanbul.  I reminded myself that special protection often accompanies the foolhardy.



A positive outlook and knowing we had done what we could kept us going.  What to do if you're lost or separated from the group was part of the next general group meeting.   The student did find her way back and her roommate found her asleep in bed after our late evening meal Saturday night.

Visiting Sultan Ahmet Mosque and other adventures

Day three or so it was time to get in-country cell phones for the group.  As a chaperon, I was on the short list for this privilege.  I have no idea why, but I left my camera in the room that morning.  Oh, well.

Our small group lined up on the Sultan Ahmet metro platform.  A train pulled up and passengers debarked.  I heard the tone announcing the doors were about to close, so I stepped into the car.  The doors swooshed together behind me.  Looking over my shoulder I realized the rest of the group had not been quite as nimble.

Different problem-solving scenarios ran through my head.  But, happily, I'd heard the name of the stop we were to take.  I recognized the name when it was announced and stepped off.  Rather than depart the platform, I stood by in case I'd need to board another train.  But in less then a minute another train pulled in and the rest of my group smiled from inside.  Whew.

Getting, registering and signing for cell phones took some time.  Eventually that was managed; thank you Turkcell.   We left with our phones and stepped across the street to the original purveyors of Turkish Delight: Haci Bekir, est. 1777.  We did not leave the shop empty handed.

The afternoon brought another opportunity to get separated.  We set off for Sultan Ahmet Mosque.  I brought up the rear of the group and eventually asked, "Who are we following?"  Our fearless leader, Suzanne, had stopped to buy water and the group hadn't noticed.  But two students, who had visited the day before, lead on toward the mosque and we were soon inside the garden wall.  We posed for pictures in the side court.  Then our group was separated again with some of us moving to the visitor entrance and others not noticing.

Eventually we all found our way to the tourist entrance.  Many visitors crowded the special area behind the men's section to gaze at the incredible designs on the domes and see the grand windows. We found Suzanne and her family inside.



Along with the delights of Istanbul, I've signed on as a responsible adult for a group of 13 college students.  Mostly this is a great arrangement, but occasionally things happen.  And happen so quickly I don't have time to be a voice of reason.  Take for example the Vespa ride.  A student spotted a shiny, new Vespa and asked the owner if she might ride it.  She thought he'd say no.  She thought wrong.  With little pause for reflection, she donned the helmet and sat astride the machine -- by herself.  She'd never driven one, a fact soon proven.  Her short ride ended with the Vespa tipped over the curb.  She was fine.  The Vespa received its first scratch.



I was SO relieved that she was in one piece and bloodless, mostly.  Also a good thing: the owner was gracious and did not flip out.

Day Two continued.

After a lovely morning on the terrace, the group hit the street. We walked through our neighborhood toward Sultan Ahmet square and the metro station there. Suzanne showed us how to purchase tokens: Jeton. New possibilities for freedom opened.

We traveled on the clean, cool train to Eminonu station near the New Mosque which faces the harbor at the confluence of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus. See the black line on the map.

The camera gave me some grief and made pictures appear blue.  Not sure yet why.  I tried another setting.  Still working on the learning curve with the new Olympus.



We ate our first so-so meal and then went on to explore the Spice Bazaar.  I grew weary, so left my group and found my way back to the apartment on my own.  I love this city!

Day Two; Part One

After a brief digression, I'll move forward again.

After a solid night's sleep following a Very Long Day, imagine my delight when I climbed the tightly winding staircase to emerge on the roof of our apartment building. The shaded terrace is a wonderful place to eat breakfast, gaze on the sea and the city, and catch a tune from Xander, the violinist in the group.

When I say good-bye..

Saying good-bye to my darlings was tough. Having pictures helps a bit. Being the one to head off for adventure is also a good idea.

A Very Long Day

Here are pictures from our first full day in Istanbul.  As usual, I go just a bit crazy with the camera, taking pictures of almost everything.

Istanbul is one more reason that timeworn, age-enhanced places and things appeal to me.



Staying awake was a challenge, but the wonder of the city helped. When I did fall into bed, I slept soundlessly, without dreaming.

Settling In

I have a crush on Istanbul.  I may just cut all ties and figure out how to become a resident.  By turns the city delights and surprises, reminding me why I find travel intoxicating.

After a very long day, post with pictures to follow, my body clock has adjusted.  The view of the sun on the sea from our roof-top terrace, the toothsome foods served outside and the narrow cobblestone streets convince me that I belong here. 

Internet service is sketchy and I face the added challenge of borrowing a labtop to check email, import photos, and now to blog, until Ken arrives.  But these inconveniences are small in comparison to the magic of Istanbul.

Breathe in. Breathe out.

Do you ever think of yourself, of your life, in a set way?  I know I do.  Words like frugal, safe, financially cautious, and honestly, fearful characterize much of my inner mantra about decisions involving major change.

So imagine the mental reshuffling I'm doing as our family launches into this fall.  I'm off to Istanbul, Turkey tomorrow!  I'm not earning an income, but my expenses are covered as a chaperon.  Yay for breaking even!  The part that makes me stop short:  I'll be on my own for two weeks.  Sure, there's the professor organizing the trip and her family as well as the thirteen students.  But I'm leaving my peeps behind.  Who will I be without them?  This blog helps track that question.

Days after I depart my favorite son takes off for a semester at a cool Quaker boarding academy. 

After that, my true love uses his research funding to begin his journey to join me, stopping in Germany on the way.  After two weeks apart, we reunite just in time for our anniversary.

While we're away, my favorite girl takes off for a term in Spain.  Last night she told a friend on the phone, "My mom leaves for Istanbul, Turkey soon so I'll have to call you back later.  I want to read to her out loud."  Now I am hooked on the book she's given me for the flight.

So much excitement.  Change.  Unknown.   And so much bittersweet as I bid my handful of darlings farewell and they set off on their own adventures.

Breathe in.  Breathe out.  Smile.